Access
Bay of Plenty
Mangorewa Gorge

Mangōrewa Gorge progress update

ACAT has been working closely with climbers, Rotorua Climbing Club, DOC, Tapuika iwi, and the Outdoor Access Commission over the past year, and we are now seeing signs of progress.

Mangōrewa has been a top priority for ACAT since DOC investigated the crag last year. We have put a lot of work into discussions with DOC and Tapuika iwi to address complex issues around fixed gear, health and safety and conservation concerns, and the cultural history and significance of the area.

Climber on overhanging rock face with bush above

Max Warren on Drag Queen at Mangorewa Gorge. Photo: Stefan Geissdörfer via theCrag, licensed under CC-NCSA.

ACAT’s manager Edwin Sheppard and Dion Clapperton from the Rotorua Climbing Club met with DOC staff in person in April. DOC has agreed in principle that its concerns could be addressed through a ‘Community Agreement’ for management of the crag, and it has since been working to facilitate further discussions with Tapuika. 

Spokespeople for Tapuika have recently confirmed that they are willing to meet with us in person and visit the area together, with a view of supporting an agreement with DOC for recreational climbing, with certain conditions. We expect this meeting will take place in the next couple of months.  

This is a positive development and we are cautiously optimistic. However, no outcome is guaranteed, and we thank climbers for their continued patience and respect for Tapuika’s wishes that no climbing take place while discussions are underway.  

What issues has DOC raised? 

Mangōrewa crag is a high-quality crag close to Rotorua and Tauranga, and one of the best climbing areas in the North Island. The crag sits on public conservation land. 

DOC’s Rotorua office investigated the crag last year and raised issues around: 

  • Permanent fixtures being installed without DOC permission (bolts, chains and access lines) 
  • Safety and liability concerns in respect of the fixed gear 
  • Vegetation removal around the cliffs and the access track 

ACAT’s expertise in legal matters and knowledge of how these issues have been dealt with in other parts of Aotearoa has been crucial in addressing these concerns. Many thanks to DOC Rotorua and Taupō staff for working with us and RCC constructively.  

What is the cultural significance of the area? 

Tapuika has mana whenua in the area and the Mangōrewa River has a rich cultural history. It is regarded by Tapuika as a tapu awa which contains significant cultural areas including Pā, urupa, battle sites, and areas associated with taniwha. Read about the cultural history of the Mangōrewa River. 

We thank Tapuika for sharing its tribal knowledge about the Mangōrewa / Paraiti awa and engaging with us about the future of the area.  

Thank you to everyone who has helped 

We also appreciate:  

  • Support from members of the Rotorua, Tauranga and Auckland climbing communities who have made significant contributions behind the scenes. 
  • Support from Herenga ā Nuku Aotearoa (the Outdoor Access Commission) and FMC.   
  • All the local and visiting climbers who kept the area clean and tidy while it was open and have respected Tapuika’s wishes that climbing cease during these discussions. DOC observed last year that the crag was well maintained with no hint of rubbish. These community efforts have had a positive impact on discussions.  

The crag remains CLOSED until further notice.