Wharepapa Rock cleanup done but access threatened by non-payment of fees
Cleanup work after the 2023 tree fall damage is now mostly complete, and the crag is seeing considerable traffic – but future access remains uncertain because many climbers are not registering or paying the crag access fee.
Cleanup work after the 2023 tree fall damage is now mostly complete, and the crag is seeing considerable traffic – but future access remains uncertain because many climbers are not registering or paying the crag access fee.
Recent observations of climber numbers at the crag vs registrations suggest that only a small minority of recreational climbers are registering and paying the access fee, likely under 25%. If this behaviour does not change, the climbing community may lose access to this crag.
The lower tier at Wharepapa Rock after treefall cleanup work was completed.
What are the access requirements?
Casual climbers must fill out and sign one registration form and pay one access fee per visitor, on every day you visit.
Club trips, commercial or guided groups and school groups must register ahead of time by emailing the crag manager: .
Registration forms and pens are available at the shelter. The access fee may be paid by cash in the shelter fee box or by bank transfer – there is good phone reception at the crag.
A reminder: you may not camp or stay in a van or other vehicle overnight, no dogs, do not climb over fences, please leave gates as you find them. If you cannot get your car up the hill, park outside the bullring, well clear of any gates.
What are access fees used for?
Access fees do not go to the landowner. The farm owner has kept the crag open purely out of goodwill for the community.
The high-use nature of the crag, especially by instruction groups, means that a high level of management is needed and the (small) access fees support this. Fees are collected by the local crag manager, who uses them to pay for admin and maintenance costs including:
- Cleaning the toilets weekly.
- Managing group bookings to avoid over-crowding.
- Maintenance of the toilet building, road and car park.
- Maintenance and testing of the lower tier anchors
- Convenient lower tier pull cords and route name tags.
- Removal of hazards.
Much of the recent crag maintenance (see below) was paid for out of the access fees, which are now exhausted.
Thanks to everyone who registered and paid, you have helped to keep the crag open and safe for the community. However, if more climbers don't start following the rules, there will be insufficient funds for further maintenance and the crag may eventually be closed.
Thanks to the landowner and farm manager
The landowner and farm manager have been extremely generous in allowing continued access, undertaking heavy maintenance work, and tolerating occasional incidents of climber misbehaviour. ACAT extends the community’s thanks to both.
Thanks to the crag manager
The crag continues to be managed and facilities maintained by Sheena Warren and family, who also deserve a huge thank you from the climbing community. Sheena is a great advocate for the climbing community and has been instrumental in keeping the crag open through two changes of ownership.
Two large trees fell on the lower tier, cleared by the landowner and farm manager at their expense.
Local volunteers cleared this upper tier damage, cut a new trail and checked the anchors below.
Fresh gravel on the car park, paid for by NZAC Central North Island and crag access fees.
Thanks to all who helped with maintenance
A lot of work has been required since a storm in April 2023 caused two big pine trees to fall onto the lower tier from above, temporarily closing many popular routes. Thanks to all who assisted getting this done in the time since then:
- Upper tier damage was initially checked out by local volunteers, who dug out a new path, installed a hand rope for use while the ground consolidated, trundled loose rocks, cleared fallen branches, and checked the affected lower tier anchors for damage.
- The farm manager and landowner cleared the massive fallen tree trunks from the cliff and paddock below at their own expense, including the hire of heavy winch equipment.
- Affected lower tier anchors were professionally inspected and re-tested at considerable expense, paid for by crag access fees. The Cawabunga anchor was identified as damaged, and this climb remains closed as a result.
- Fresh gravel was laid on the rutted steep part of the farm road, paid for by crag access fees.
- The trail and bottom of the affected routes were dug out by the crag manager and branches and other debris cleared.
- 600m of new pull cord for easy top rope setup was paid for by crag access fees and installed by local volunteers. Please do not move these around or remove fallen pull cords.
- Name tags at the bottom of routes have been refreshed, paid for by crag access fees.
- Gravel has been laid on the car park area to help prevent vehicles getting stuck. Crag access fees paid for the gravel and NZ Alpine Club Central North Island section generously paid for truck transport. Thanks to Amy Cullen for organising this.
- Dangerous branches on the upper tier that overhung the lower tier have been professionally removed by an arborist, paid for by crag access fees.
- Some worn anchor hardware has been identified and this will be replaced soon, paid for by crag access fees. Thanks to Doug McCauley for the heads-up and monitoring.